Down and out in Bangkok
“Is the hotel safe?”
“I think so.”
I am at Bangkok Airport. Its 2 am. I have just flown 21 hours from San Francisco. My luggage is lost, the airport hotel claims they have no record of my reservation and are completely full. I am exhausted and because there is no room at the airport inn, I have no where to go.
The desk clerk on the graveyard shift tells me he knows of a great hotel and his friend can take me to The Princess.
“I hope it is safe and what am I doing?” I think to myself as I climb onto the shuttle. The driver gives me a toothy grin.
Fairy Lights, garden gnomes and plastic herons
The Princess is further away from the airport than makes me comfortable. We drive through dark streets with low squat buildings. We turn into off into a lane under an arch decorated with fairy lights and pass a pond with garden gnomes and plastic herons. We pull up outside the Princess, a rectangular modern building - about 6 stories high. There is a plastic Christmas tree with flashing multi colored lights in the lobby. I thank the driver and push through the doors.
“We are waiting for you.” Said the man behind the desk. He has dyed blonde hair styled so a huge bang hangs over one eye. He seems kind and his blue eyes, the one I could see, was friendly.
“$60 for the night including hot breakfast and free internet. You are on the 6th floor.” I took the key and the elevator.
No cockroaches and Scarlett O’Hara
Room was clean but sparse. The overhead light worked if you put the card attached to the key in a slot by the door. When it was lights out you had to remove keycard and find your way to bed in the dark. Water was cold, bed looked clean and I could see no cockroaches.
At 3:00 am after a catnap on the rock hard bed I remembered free internet. I logged on, pulled up the Peninsula hotel, booked a room for later in the day and tried to get some sleep. I had fond memories of the Peninsula overlooking the Chao Phraya River - it was part of a family Christmas trip one year. They would sort the missing bag. Bed would be comfy, shower hot, linens smooth. Ah tomorrow! I closed my eyes and thought of Scarlett.
Wheels, tires and an aborted United Flight
This story has a happy ending, though it took a long way to get there. A United plane with a faulty tyre returning to the terminal in SFO meant I missed my international connection and a series of flights to Rangoon. The following day I returned to SFO to begin the journey over. My luggage however had gone on ahead of me.
“You will go through customs in Narita, Tokyo, and get it there!” I was told. An endless series of inaccurate statements. The night before I was told by United
“That bag is in Grover”
“What does that mean?” I asked
“I have no idea.” said the agent. I decided to get to SFO 3 hrs before my flight the next day to find it.
“It left for LA at midnight I was told.” the next morning
There were no customs and no bag in Narita - it was still in LA I was told. No bag in Bangkok either. I cannot remember how many hours I spent at desks at various international airports trying to explain. Repeating my story until I was hoarse from talking and air-conditioning.
Deep Fried Sparrows
At one airport lounge I picked up a copy of Saturday’s financial times. Description of the train from Rangoon to Mandalay. Since I was now several days late and my friends were already in Mandalay I looked at this with interest. A great rail link built by the British years ago. Ancient rolling stock. You can hang off the sides the story said. Lunch time - a wok in the middle of one of the cars and Deep Fried Sparrow on the menu. Maybe not
In the end I took Bangkok Airways to Mandalay. They use Bulgarian Air and the theme Fly Boutique, Feel Unique. Last time I was in Burma it was a Focker Friendship plane. We were delayed while a mechanic walked the length of the plane with a large ball of twine. When we finally took off vibrations caused bugs to emerge from the cracks in the cabin.
No obscene or immortal materials, or endangered wildlife parts
I filled out the customs form and marked “Toutist” as reason for travel. The customs form prohibits Psychotropic substances, articles which injure public security or morals, obscene or immortal materials, endangered wildlife parts. It also says prosecution will follow if one does not follow exciting laws.
Ah a new world. Burma has opened up. Three tall blonde New Zealand girls were chatting to a small asian man on the bus between the terminal and the plane. They were planning to take a local bus from Mandalay to Inle Lake.
“How is it?” they asked
“Bus is long and not so comfortable” he replied
“I have business in Inle lake.You can drive with me if you like”
“Oh wow! like really?” Go the girls
Ah Mandalay where the flying fishes play.
I think of both Scarlett and Rudyard Kipling.
JANUARY 2014
