Saigon Street Scene

Thousands of motorcycles cram the streets of Saigon roaring and moving like a motorized Tsunami. The flow has a life of its own. For pedestrians there are no crossings. Find a lull in the flow then walk slowly, I was advised - that way they can go round you. On no account run.

Honda is the preferred machine. Knock-offs are available but often have a life expectancy of two weeks.

Whole families pile onto the motorcycles. Saturday night they take the the streets, four or five crammed on riding pillion - children sitting on wicker booster seats, babies wedged in. They drive around in an endless roar and swirl, drivers occasionally checking cell phones.

Helmets are now obligatory, and so it seems are the face masks. Sometimes covering the whole head. The purpose is to protect the skin from the harshness of the streets and the sun. They give the tidal wave of traffic the personna of aliens. Run (try to walk) for your life - thousands of faceless riders are reving up their machines.

Hoa Tuc cooking class

Below: Rice paper wrapped Spring rolls with peanut dipping sauce; Morning Glory tendril salad with shrimp and carrot; Lotus fried rice wrapped in lotus leaf. The only fat used was two teaspoons of peanut oil for the rice. Fish sauce, kumquat juice, garlic, chili and sugar were seasonings used. TTFN

Cooking Class at Hoa Tue, Saigon

We met the chef at the main food market at 8:30. He carefully explained that the market was one of the cleanest anywhere - no flies or maggots. That was good to know, and we were off following him through stalls piled high with brightly colored tropical fruits, lotus leaves, buds and stalks and sheaves of morning glory tendrils (a delicacy). Crabs made to march in rows in baskets frantically waved pincers at us, and one fish jumped from his bowl and tried to get away. Inside the main building we learned the ins and outs of selecting rice paper and passed by displays of pigs ears, snouts and other parts. Two of our participants decided they were vegetarian.

The class was held above the restaurant which is housed in an old opium refining plant. Four expats, a Brit, two Aussies and a girl from Taiwan.

Two Germans, a Frenchman, two more Aussies and yours truly were in the class. A fun international group, and the tales of living in Saigon from the ex-pats really interesting. The only incongruous item on the table was peanut butter in jars. "The American's are gone but they left their peanut butter," quipped one of the Germans.

Turned out the peanut butter is an important ingredient for a favorite dipping sauce. We prepared Spring Rolls, Salad of morning glory tendrils, and lotus fried rice which we wrapped in lotus leaves. I have a folder of recipies, but somehow it was the international aspect of the morning and hearing from expats which made it all so interesting. TTFN

Good Morning Vietnam

Greetings from Saigon which is feverishly preparing for Tet, the Lunar New Year. The Year of the Dragon will be celebrated beginning on January 23 and streets are already hung with yellow flowers which glow and flutter above the swirls of motorized bicycles.

Yesterday the spa and pool were heaven after the long journey from San Francisco. I did a short walkabout and scoped out the Continental Hotel - a rendezvous for the press corps in wartime along with The Rex Hotel. But the day was hot and humid and the pool beckoned. Today a cooking class will be followed by some serious exploration. TTFN