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Dateline Bali

The rice terraces of Bali are even more stunning than I imagined. They are now a UNESCO Heritage site

Day Two Bali.  What a day. Maurauding macaques, picturebook rice terraces and a live animal sacrifice.

Sacred Macaques

They got their status because of the Hindu Epic Ramayana.  Long story - but in Bali they cavort in the Monkey Forest Temple and generally behave rather badly, stealing anything they can lay their hands on. Glasses, hearing aids, earrings.

Touristy? for sure, but I could not leave without seeing them. This one posed on a wall of the temple.  8:30 am is feeding time and they arrive on the dot.

Temple in the Lake

One of the most picturesque temples, so the guide book says is in a lake in the crater of an old volcano. The water was low, and it was not quite surrounded by water, but there was a ceremony in full force, so plenty of photo ops. Every day there are myriad ceremonies in Bali. However this one turned out to be one which happens once in 100 years. We were lucky - maybe.

Worshippers at the lake temple ceremony

I took pictures and walked around a bit.  Then all of the worshippers processed from the temple and headed to the water.  Some got into boats others lined the shores in anticipation.  My driver found out from some of those attending that since this was once in 100 years they were sacrificing a live goat.  They were planning to take the goat to the center of the lake and dump him overboard. "Look," said the driver, "You can see it!"  That was it for me.  We left, I think my driver wanted to stay but I simply could not be part of it.

After the ceremony in the temple there was a procession to the lake.  Everyone watched as the goat was loaded onto the boat and the journey to the center of the lake commenced.

Tomorrow evening I fly to Singapore and so will begin the slow process of returning to the real world. Jetlag may take a week or so and will be relatively easy.  I think the culture shock will take longer.  Java, Borneo and Bali.  A heady trio.   TTFN

Lotus in a pool in Ubud, Bali

Last day at sea. Bali tomorrow. Epic 2 days into jungle to see wild primates.

Proboscus monkey with baby in tops of trees at sunset

More news from Bali.  Leave early tomorrow.

Amazing trip.  Enjoy photos

TTFN

Orphan Orangutan at care center. Parents and siblings were killed by loggers

wild orangutan at Camp Leakey

Rare Proboscus Monkey - He was in the top of a tree way above me

I made a lot of new friends at Camp Leakey

CROSSING THE LINE

Today we just crossed the line.  No wild parties though, just an announcement from the captain before lunch.

Two Hikes in the Jungle

I am in recovery today.  Yesterday there were two hikes in the Borneo jungle - the second, in the afternoon lasted about three hours. It was billed as “only for the very fit”.  20 passengers of the 100 on board signed up. It was hot, humid and included more than 250 steps up ladders.

Monkeys, Pigs, and a Viper

The upside? Amazing views of the South China Sea and at the end a long walk along a beach where we found macaque monkeys on the ground and giant ginger Proboscis monkeys with long white tails in the trees.  There were also wild pigs and a bright green venomous pit viper lying in wait on a log. The water in the sea must have been at least 90.

Ladders, Boardwalks and a plant that catches rats

On the trail there were ladders to help us scale some very steep slopes. Most of them were in good shape, and 80% of the rungs intact. The morning hike was more difficult than antisciiapted because a forest fire had burned much of the wooden infrastructure.  For both hikes we were warned to keep to the paths as leaches lurked in the undergrowth - everyone followed this advice. Boardwalks were to avoid snakes. Along the trail the most interesting plants for me were the pitcher plants.  A large cousin of the venus fly trap, which catches flies, these are so large they catch rats. I took photographs -  did not have time to look inside them.

Time for champers

Humid, humid, humid. Water underfoot, dripping from trees and temps in the 90’s. I carried three bottles of water in my Yosemite backpack.  Great experience - good to be back to air con.  I celebrated with a glass of champers.

TTFN

Pulau Lintaang - Somewhere in the South China Sea

First snorkeling day. P L is one of the thousands of islands making up the archipelago, South China Sea Islands. There are hundreds of them. Most are uninhabited and various countries lay claim to them. Countries which border the SCS include China, Taiwan, Philippines, Malaysia, Brunei, Indonesia, Singapore and Vietnam.

We went over on zodiacs. Beautiful pristine beach - spotted some bright blue fish and some yellow ones. Found some amazing clams and lots of flying fish behind a rock. After lunch - a gorgeous BBQ on beach I tried out kayaking. Not a bad beginning try - will try again.

Great and friendly group on ship. 50% Aussies who I love traveling with, friendly, funny and easy going. To night is Captains cocktail party and I will sit with the expedition leader Tom. Off to have tea then take some photos when the sun becomes let intense.

So happy about the Scottish vote. Was awake in the night worrying. In my heart I felt that it would not pass but it was so close. The ramifications would have been horrendous. I ran into this young woman at Jogia airport in Java. She had no idea what the sweater meant - just thught it cool.  It was an omen for me.

More later TTFN 

THE ROAD TO MANDALAY

Down and out in Bangkok

“Is the hotel safe?”

“I think so.”

I am at Bangkok Airport. Its 2 am.   I have just flown 21 hours from San Francisco. My luggage is lost, the airport hotel claims they have no record of my reservation and are completely full. I am exhausted and because there is no room at the airport inn, I have no where to go.

The desk clerk on the graveyard shift tells me he knows of a great hotel and his friend can take me to The Princess. 

“I hope it is safe and what am I doing?”  I think to myself as I climb onto the shuttle. The driver gives me a toothy grin.

Fairy Lights, garden gnomes and plastic herons 

The Princess is further away from the airport than makes me comfortable.  We drive through dark streets with low squat buildings. We turn into off into a lane under an arch decorated with fairy lights and pass a pond with garden gnomes and plastic herons. We pull up outside the Princess, a rectangular modern building - about 6 stories high. There is a plastic Christmas tree with flashing multi colored lights in the lobby.  I thank the driver and push through the doors.

“We are waiting for you.” Said the man behind the desk. He has dyed blonde hair styled so a huge bang hangs over one eye. He seems kind and his blue eyes, the one I could see, was friendly.

“$60 for the night including hot breakfast and free internet. You are on the 6th floor.”  I took the key and the elevator.

No cockroaches and Scarlett O’Hara

Room was clean but sparse. The overhead light worked if you put the card attached to the key in a slot by the door.  When it was lights out you had to remove keycard and find your way to bed in the dark. Water was cold, bed looked clean and I could see no cockroaches.

At 3:00 am after a catnap on the rock hard bed I remembered free internet. I logged on, pulled up the Peninsula hotel, booked a room for later in the day and tried to get some sleep. I had fond memories of the Peninsula overlooking the Chao Phraya River - it was part of a family Christmas trip one year.  They would sort the missing bag. Bed would be comfy, shower hot, linens smooth.  Ah tomorrow! I closed my eyes and thought of Scarlett.

Wheels, tires and an aborted United Flight

This story has a happy ending, though it took a long way to get there.  A United plane with a faulty tyre returning to the terminal in SFO meant I missed my international connection and a series of flights to Rangoon. The following day I returned to SFO to begin the journey over. My luggage however had gone on ahead of me.

“You will go through customs in Narita, Tokyo, and get it there!” I was told. An endless series of inaccurate statements.  The night before I was told by United

 “That bag is in Grover”

“What does that mean?” I asked

“I have no idea.” said the agent.  I decided to get to SFO 3 hrs before my flight the next day to find it.

“It left for LA at midnight I was told.” the next morning

There were no customs and no bag in Narita - it was still in LA I was told. No bag in Bangkok either.  I cannot remember how many hours I spent at desks at various international airports trying to explain.  Repeating my story until I was hoarse from talking and air-conditioning.

Deep Fried Sparrows

At one airport lounge I picked up a copy of Saturday’s financial times.  Description of the train from Rangoon to Mandalay.  Since I was now several days late and my friends were already in Mandalay I looked at this with interest.   A great rail link built by the British years ago.  Ancient rolling stock.  You can hang off the sides the story said. Lunch time - a wok in the middle of one of the cars and Deep Fried Sparrow on the menu. Maybe not

In the end I took Bangkok Airways to Mandalay.  They use Bulgarian Air and the theme Fly Boutique, Feel Unique.  Last time I was in Burma it was a Focker Friendship plane. We were delayed while a mechanic walked the length of the plane with a large ball of twine.  When we finally took off vibrations caused bugs to emerge from the cracks in the cabin.   

No obscene or immortal materials, or endangered wildlife parts

I filled out the customs form and marked “Toutist” as reason for travel. The customs form prohibits Psychotropic substances, articles which injure public security or morals, obscene or immortal materials, endangered wildlife parts. It also says prosecution will follow if one does not follow exciting laws.

Ah a new world. Burma has opened up.  Three tall blonde New Zealand girls were chatting to a small asian man on the bus between the terminal and the plane.  They were planning to take a local bus from Mandalay to Inle Lake.   

“How is it?” they asked

“Bus is long and not so comfortable” he replied

“I have business in Inle lake.You can drive with me if you like”

“Oh wow! like really?” Go the girls

Ah Mandalay where the flying fishes play. 

I think of both Scarlett and Rudyard Kipling.

JANUARY 2014