Life on the Train -

I was the only American/Western European on the train. I thought there might be the odd backpaker or Aussie - but no. I don't think anyone else spoke English. I was safe, but stayed in my compartment which locked from the inside but not the outside. I only got off the last stop before Moscow and took a couple of photographs with a small pocket camera. I wanted to be low profile and I just took pictures from the window.

The People: were Uzbeks and Russians. It was a huge train and most of the carriages were jammed with people. Bunks were stacked in threes. Many were shuttle traders - trying to make a living by taking goods to Moscow. One man at Tashkent had twenty boxes of tomatoes lovingly packed in wooden boxes with paper he was taking to Moscow. The passengers did not appear to be mafia, spies or murderers.

The Food: Did not go to restaurant car as I did not want to leave gear despite padlocks. I had heard the offerings were bleak anyway. I was well supplied from shopping in Tashkent. then I met the Piroshki man! An Uzbek with gold teeth carrying a tray of fresh wares. They were more dough than filling but were warm and a change from Lipton's cuppa soup, luna bars and dried mulberries. The P man also had a basket hung on his shoulder (he had the strap padded with towels as it must have been very heavy) In his basket was juice, kefir and Vodka. The Kefir was great - I would have loved some Vodka but wanted to keep my wits about me. He brought me fresh hot plov on Sunday evening which tasted divine in comparison to everything else available.

The Samovar Not a nice brass one of my imagination or the one Mara has, but a white cistern which dispatched near boiling hot water. So I had endless cups of tea - tea pot and cups provided in compartment. It was also good for soup, hot chocolate and I filled a bowl for washing.

The Facilities Lets not go there

The Compartment had two seats/beds. I filled one with my gear. Could have put it on the floor underneath but wanted acess and wanted to keep others who might be looking for a bunk firmly out. Small table by window with teapot, plate and cups in Uzbek china. Four large pillows, sheets and pillowcases were provided. Glad I had silk sleep sack and large cashmere blanket. I was in a bubble in my compartment untouched really by life on the train.

Summing up I have pages and pages of notes in Matthew's Moleskine. I shall sift through and precis. I shall spare you too much more now. Just to say the three days and three nights were something I am so glad I did - a truly incredible journey. But not one to be repeated nor do I want to do the Trans Siberian - which is twice as long and I imagine would not be half as interesting. TTFN